Recipe - Summer Ale, a variant

I love the summer ale base recipe: 4 pounds maris otter, 4 pounds pale 2 row, 1 pound crystal, 1/2 pound wheat, 1 pound cane sugar...and then experiment.

I always make it as an american style ale...american hops, SafAle S-05.

Between the cane sugar and the S-05, it's always crisp and dry.  A favorite at the lake.

Here's this variant:
5 gallons

Mash @ 154F overnight mash
  • 4.0 # pale 2 row
  • 4.0 # maris otter
  • 2.0 # 20L crystal
  • 1.0 # carapils
  • 0.5 # wheat 
  • 1 oz citra, first wort
  • 1 # cane sugar 60 minutes
  • 1 oz citra, 15 minutes
  • 2 T black pepper, 5 minutes

Cool and pitch 1 sachet hydrated SafAle S-05.

That easy.  First taste (during bottling) is great.

Update - Dragon Milk

Just an update on the Dragon Milk experiment.  Bottled yesterday.  Tastes a tinch thin.  Flavor's good, but not much mouthfeel.

Looking forward to what you other guys did with this come brew day.

My new tun.

I'm, exclusively, a no sparge and batch sparge  brewer, so my setup has always been pretty simple.

The new setup starts with a 50 quart MaxCold cooler Rox picked up for me.

I'm using the same spigot I use for the 5 gallon tun.  I just popped out the drain fitting that came with the cooler.  This uses the same baby  bottle washers discussed in the kettle mod post.

I'm using the standard plumbing supply stainless braid fitting I made...I think every homebrewer in the world uses this trick.  That's a stainless hose clamp holding it to the brass fitting.

Here's the inside with everything hooked I said, pretty simple.

Works great!  In a 40 degree garage I lost 1 degree in a 60 minute mash. 

Sometimes you got no pot

I believe the two things that discourage most beginning homebrewers are poor sanitation (so the beer gets spoiled) and a crummy pot (so the frustration gets high).

But a good pot for a 5 gallon batch of beer is expensive!  Even a generic stainless steel pot with a good thick bottom and decent handles, 8 gallons or so, no bells and whistles, can run $100.

Who wants to drop that kind of money on a hobby you don't even know if you're going to enjoy?

But you can make great, even outstanding beer without that kind of investment if you just do it kind of backwards. You're going to need a spaghetti or canning or stock pot...something 10 or 12 quarts...if you don't have one in the house, borrow it from your grandmother....offer her a beer to rent it or something...or a neighbor.

Here's an extract recipe for an American IPA.

Go to your local homebrew store and get

  • 9 pounds of liquid malt extract (unhopped), something with a little color like a northern brewer gold.
  • 3 ounces of amarillo hops.  they should be somewhere around 9% alpha acids.  If you don't know what that means, roll back to the hops 101 post
  • 1 sachet of SafAle S-05 yeast.

Should run you about $30-35 and it's going to make 50 bottles of really good beer.

Now here's the deal -> the malt extract is you don't have to do the whole hour boil for the extract.  If you DO try to do the whole boil with the extract and you're using less than 5 gallons of water, then the wort is too thick and you won't get good bitterness and flavor from you hops.

So we're going to boil the hops (only) for an hour, get a really good extraction of alpha acids and flavors and we're only going to add the extract for the last 10 minutes, just to make sure the whole mess gets a good solid boil and sanitized.

Here's the 1, 2, 3 of the process:
  1. put 1 ounce of hops and 2 gallons of water in your pot. maybe only 1.5 gallons if you only have a 10 quart pot
  2. bring it to a boil and start your timer.  and we mean a good roiling boil.
  3. after 40 minutes (20 minutes remaining) add another ounce of hops
  4. in 10 more minutes, stir in the extract.  keep stirring and, from here on out, don't leave the have to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't boil over...if it starts to, remove from the heat and just manage it, so you have a good boil for 10 minutes.
  5. after the extract has come back to a boil and isn't threatening to make a huge sugary mess, add the last ounce of hops and boil for 5 more minutes.
  6. turn off the heat.
  7. add water or ice to bring to 5 gallons in your fermentation vessel, bucket, carboy, whatever

chill, pitch and ferment; each of those are a entire book in their own right and we're not going into that scour the web or read a book or ask me a specific question if you need help.

But that's it.  How to make a great beer when you got no pot.

Note:  a slight variation of this is to put, roughly, 1/3 of the extract in at the beginning and save 2/3 for the last 10 minutes.  There are a couple good reasons to consider this, namely getting some carmelization out of the wort and, when following a recipe to get a more accurate hops extract to what the original creator intended.  

How Beer Saved the World

A discovery channel special.  You know it's true, but now you can see all the details.

     see the IMDB writeup

     $15 for the dvd

     Stream it on NetFlix

     Or watch online

101 - extract, all grain...conversions

First a word about my own prejudices:

  1. I think most beers benefit from, at least, the addition of specialty grains (i.e. not entirely extract) and 
  2. I don't really think there's that much difference between all grain and extract in terms of the quality of the finished product.  I thing other factors like sanitation, fermentation temperature, etc play a much bigger role.

That being said, I am, myself, 90% of the time, an all grain brewer...but I think it's probably more the tweaking, gear building part that makes me hassle with it rather than thinking my beer tastes demonstrably better for it.

So, that being said, we only want to use LME (liquid malt extract) or DME (dried malt extract) to substitute for the pale malts in the recipe...we want to keep the special grains as they are and perform a partial mash or steep them.


Converting an all grain recipe to an extract recipe
  • pale malt X 0.75 = LME
  • pale malt X 0.60 = DME
Example:  if the all grain recipe calls for 10 pounds of pale malt, you need 7.5 pounds of Liquid Malt Extract or 6 pounds of Dried Malt Extract as a substitution.

Conversely, converting extract to all grain
  • LME / 0.75 = pale malt
  • DME / 0.60 = pale malt

Again, all pretty simple.

Here's the "grain bill" (the list of grains/fermentables in the recipe) for a simple recipe I like a lot, Summer Ale.  We'll convert this to an LME recipe
  • 4.0 pounds pale 2 row malt
  • 4.0 pounds maris otter malt
  • 1.0 pound 45L crystal malt
  • 0.5 pounds wheat malt

Converted to LME
  • 6.0 pounds LME (3 pounds for the 2 row and 3 pounds for the maris otter)
  • 1.0 pound 45L crystal
  • 0.5 pounds wheat malt 
There are plenty of sources to tell you how to steep your grains and boil your LME so we won't go into that here.

If you're converting from an extract recipe TO an all grain recipe, you have a ton of choices.  Maris Otter, Golden Promise, Pilsners...all kinds of things to play with.  Just make sure that you're using "base malts" instead of the crystals and roasteds for the converted LME/DME.

The Summer Ale recipe is simple and clean and works really well for variations.  One of the full recipes is a couple posts back but don't stick to it...change it up, play a does well with all kinds of hops, bitterness levels, other specialty grains added to it...just don't go dark with is, after all, SUMMER ale.

101 - gravity...the basics

Again, a background, a 10,000 foot view...

You hear it all the time, "high gravity beer" or "the OG was 1.072!", etc.  But what's it mean?  Its really cool and really easy science and it will all make great sense in just a minute.

Ok, before we start with the brewing specifics, some background.

"gravity" is short for "specific gravity" and it is the measure of density.  In our case, the density of a fluid, but solid objects are also measured with specific gravity.  Heavier things have a bigger "specific gravity" number than lighter things...and I'll show you, down below, why this is important to you.

The whole concept was invented / discovered by Archimedes back about 200 B.C. You probably  remember, from sixth grade science class, the story of the guy that jumped out of the tub and started running down the street naked yelling "Eureka! Eureka!". That was Archimedes and buoyance / density what what he was shouting about.

Brewers use a device called a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity of their wort and beer (wort is nothing more than the fluid that hasn't fermented yet but is going to be beer in a week or so when the yeast get done doing their thing).

The hydrometer, as far as we know, was invented by Hypatia of Alexandria somewhere around 400 A.D.  She was an early scientist / physicist (they called them "philosophers" in those days) that was finally killed by a Christian mob in one of those periodic science versus religion things that humans seem to go through from time to time.

It works like this:

  • The specific gravity of water is 1.000.  
  • As you dissolve sugar in water, it gets denser and the specific gravity rises.
  • Then, as the yeast turn the sugary water into alcohol, the gravity lowers.  

Just to give you some quick frame of reference.  A medium strength beer might start fermentation with an OG (original gravity) of 1.050 and might end, after fermentation is complete, with an FG (final gravity) of 1.008.

As a brewer, you measure your gravity while the wort is fermenting into beer and you see the gravity get lower and lower as the days go by.  When the gravity stops getting lower, that means the yeast are done and you can bottle your beer.

Another quick aside here...sometimes your gravity stops getting lower way too soon...that's called a "stuck fermentation"...after brewing a few batches, you'll get a feel for when the fermentation is done and when it's stuck.

Just for some extra jargon, how much the gravity drops is known as attentuation and different yeasts attenuate differently.  In the example above, a low attenuation yeast might be completely finished when the FG is 1.014, but a high attenuation yeast might drop it as far as 1.004.

So there's two things going on here you need to think about...a low attenuation yeast, all other things being equal, makes a sweeter, less-alcoholic beer (because it stops turning sugar into alcohol while there's relatively more sugar left in the fluid). Conversely, a higher attenuating yeast will make a drier, more alcoholic beer, all other things being equal.

One more term and then we'll be ready to take on a specific example.  "Gravity points".  To keep things simple, we're going to use LME (liquid malt extract - the thick syrup you get at the homebrew store to make your beer).  A basic LME might have 36 gravity points.  What that means is that, if you dissolve 1 pound of LME in 1 gallon of water, the gravity will be 1.036.

We typically brew in 5 gallon batches, so 1 pound of LME in 5 gallons of water will make an OG of about 1.007 (36 points per gallon spread out amongst five gallons is about 7 points per gallon...or put arithmetically, 36 divided by 5 is about 7).

So here we go with an example:

We want to brew a beer and we buy 6 pounds of LME.  We boil 5 gallons of water and stir in the LME, boil for an hour, cool and use our hydrometer to measure the OG.  We expect to see somewhere around 1.043 (6 pounds of LME times 36 gravity points is 216 gravity points in ONE we divide that by 5 because we used FIVE gallons.)

We write down the date and the OG because we are, after all, master brewers keeping accurate records.

We pitch our yeast, put on the airlock, put the bucket or carboy into a place where it doesn't get too cold and it doesn't get too hot, lets say 64-68F, and we just let the yeast work for a couple days.  Then we measure again...and we wait a few more days and measure again...wash, rinse, repeat.

Eventually, usually about a week or two, depending on a ton of variables, the gravity will stop getting lower.  When the gravity stays the same for 3-4 days, the yeast have done all they can.

Congratulations.  It's now beer.

101 - hops...creating a recipe

This is for those of us that haven't been brewing very long and want to make their own recipe or tweak an existing recipe.  As in pretty much all of life, nothing described in something this short can be completely true and accurate...but it'll do for the 10,000 foot view.

Hops are used for three things in brewing: bitterness, flavor and aroma...and this is the cool part -> YOU get to decide how you're using the hops simply by choosing WHEN you put them in your kettle.

There are only three things to remember:
  • Hops boiled a long time contribute a lot of bitterness, a bit of flavor, and no aroma.
  • Hops boiled a short time contribute a little bitterness, a lot of flavor, and some aroma.
  • Hops boiled for a very short time or not boiled at all add no bitterness, some flavor, and a lot of aroma.

So imagine're going to boil your wort for 60 minutes.
  1. At 60 minutes, you add hops for bitterness.
  2. After 40 minutes (what we call 20 minutes left to boil) you add the hops for flavor
  3. At flameout, you add the hops for aroma.

At it's simplest, it's pretty much just that easy.

Now...a little jargon (but, trust me, cool jargon).

Malt makes the beer sweet, hops make the beer bitter.  Every style is, among other things, a balancing act between the malt and the hops (and the yeast, but that's another subject entirely).  An AIPA (American India Pale Ale) has, relatively speaking, a lot of bitterness.  An Irish red, comparatively, has a lot of sweetness.  You're going to control the bitterness AND the balance of your beer by choosing and using hops appropriately.

When you buy hops, they'll be labeled with an AA%.  This stands for the percent of the hops that are alpha acids...the primary source of bitterness.  When you boil the hops for 60 minutes, you're going to release all that bitterness into your beer.

Different hop varieties have different tastes AND different amounts of alpha acids. Crystal hops, for example, usually have between 2 and 4% AA...and I have some Warrior hops in the fridge that are 18% AA.

So think about this...if you want a beer that's as bitter as 1 ounce of Warrior hops would make it...but you're using 3% AA Crystal hops...then it stands to reason that you'd need 6 ounces, right?  1 ounce of 18%AA = 6 ounces of 3%AA...make sense?

The amount of bitterness in the beer is known as IBU...the International Bitterness Units.  The amount of perceived bitterness in your beer is the BR...the Bitterness Ratio (the balance thing we were talking about above).  We'll discuss BR another time.

Just to give you an idea, the American Lagers that everyone knows have, maybe 10 IBUs...and an Imperial IPA might have 100 IBU.

Calculating IBUs with a pencil and paper is pretty complicated, but for the mathematical masochists among us, here are a couple formulas from the homebrew wiki.  In practice, we don't do that.  We go online or to our phones and pull up an IBU calculator from someone like Brewer's Friend.

An Example: a nice Scottish or Irish Ale.

(follow along with me here...pop open another window on the IBU calculator and use it in the recipe's easy)

You just went into the Nine Brothers Irish Pub and had a Smithwicks...and you loved outstanding beer!  Someone tells you itÅ› an Irish can hardly wait to make your own Irish lets go!

We know for this style that we're looking for 20-30 IBU and little hops flavor (check any beer style guide for that info).  We have some nice Kent Goldings hops at the local home brew store and the package says 5.0% AA.

So we plug into the calculator an average wort density (what we call OG, original gravity, but more on this in a subsequent investigation)...let's say 1.050 and 2 ounces of hops boiled 60 minutes....the calculator says 42 IBU...WOAH...too much!  That'll be way too bitter for what we're trying to make...dial it back a bit...put in 1 ounce...says 21 IBU...ok, just right.

So when we make our beer, we'll use one hop addition...60 minutes before the end of the boil and we'll add 1 ounce of Kent Goldings.

Now, we could stop right there and be just fine....but why not fancy it up bit?  Just to show off.

We'll give it just a bit more hops flavor but no bitterness (remember our rule? that means short boil)......go to the calculator....let's try 1/4 ounce for the last 20 minutes....calculator says that'll add 2.9 IBUs....21 IBUs (from the 1 ounce at 60 minutes) + 2.9 IBUs is about 24 IBU...still well in the range of our desired style.

Now we know we're going to throw an ounce of Kent Goldings in when the boil starts, boil it for 40 minutes, throw in 1/4 ounce of Kent Goldings and boil 20 more minutes.

So - that's how that's done...pretty easy actually...a couple times through and it'll be second nature.

Hop Spider

my newest device.

not my idea...I stole the entire thing from John Brooke's article in the December Brew Your Own magazine.

Thats a regular grain bag / hop bag attached to it...full of hop pellets.

Notice how the heads of the carriage bolts hang over the lip of the pot so the thing doesn't fall in.

Note...I had to trim the hop bag.  I was afraid that, if it's too big, as the pot comes to a boil, it would inhibit that great roiling boil you need to make sure to drive off all the DMS stuff.

Worked great.

Between this thing and the hop blocker...I punched in six ounces of hops and had very little in the primary and the chiller didn't get clogged.

The whole thing cost me less than $10.

milk - the best glue for labels

I enjoy making labels for my beer, but I don't enjoy trying to clean bottles of the glue that avery and others use for their labels.

Somehow, I found out or figured out that milk does a much better job.

The labels stick nicely to the bottles, but come off easily, too.

Get a saucer of milk and float each end of the label like in the picture below

Don't immerse it, just float it to dampen the back of the paper.

Then smooth it on to the bottle and let it dry.  It's that easy.

A session beer that doesn't suck

I've been struggling to make a session beer that doesn't suck.  Finally hit it.

mash @ 155F
  • 3 # 2 row pale
  • 3 # maris otter
  • 1 # 45L crystal
  • 1 # biscuit

  • 1 oz northern brewer - first wort
  • 1 oz glacier (from the backyard) - 15 minutes

chill and pitch
1 sachet safale S-04
  • OG 1.044
  • FG 1.014
  • 3.9% abv
  • 44 ibu
  • br 1.2

Today's game: Dragon Milk

Today's brewing game.

We each use the same recipe but brew in our various styles and mashes, all grain, extract, BIAB, lauter, batch sparge, single infusion, decoction whatever.  Then we get together and cross taste on BrewDay.

Single malt, single hops.  Here's the recipe:

  • Any water treatments you need
  • 14 #Maris Otter or similar DME / LME
  • mash - your choice.
  • 3 oz East Kent Goldings - first wort
  • 2 oz East Kent Goldings - 20 minutes
  • 1 oz East Kent Goldings - flameout.
  • irish moss or whatever fining agents you prefer...or not.
  • SafAle S-04

I know I'm doing all grain with my new setup, Jed's doing extract, Greg's doing BIAB...plenty of room left for variants / mash styles.

Thanksgiving - what you didn't know.

I had no idea that the reason the pilgrims stopped at Plymouth Rock, instead of continuing on up the Hudson River was because they'd run out of beer.

From the manuscript "Of Plymouth Plantation" by William Bradford, second governor of Plymouth Colony and passenger on the Mayflower: "...For they had been 6 weeks at sea, and had no water, nor beere, nor any woode left, but had burnt up all their emptie caske..."

Here's the actual transcription of the manuscript from Early Americas Digital Archive (EADA).

and thanks to the Indianapolis Star article written by Jason Larrison of  for the info.

Bombshell Blonde - pale ale

5 gallons.  A pale ale, this is the beer that got the new roof on the house.

mash @ 155F
  • 4.0 # pale 2 row
  • 2.0 # maris otter
  • 0.5 # biscuit
  • 0.5 # 10L crystal
  • 0.5 # 40L crystal
  • 0.5 # wheat

  • 0.5 oz warrior - first wort
  • 2.0 # light brown sugar - 60 minutes
  • 0.5 oz cascade - 15 minutes
  • 1 t black peppercorns - 5 minutes
  • 1.0 oz willamette - 5 minutes

cool and pitch 1 sachet SafAle S-05
  • OG 1.056
  • FG 1.010

Interesting note: after 2 weeks in the bottle, a slight vegetal aftertaste...assumed DMS...but 2 weeks later the strange taste was gone and the beer was delicious..and literature suggests DMS won't fade, so I don't know what it was.

Completely consumed during the  big roofing weekend.

Kettle Mod - hopblocker

I had a great 8g pot, but no valve and found siphoning with the plate chiller awkward (and that's the nice way of phrasing use, siphoning to the chiller involved obscenities...)

I bought a hopblocker from the finest, most friendly homebrew shop in Indiana, Kennywood, in Crown Point, and contacted the folks at Bargain Fittings to fab the fittings for the pot.

I didn't really know what I needed, but they took great care of me via an email exchange and fabbed an all stainless ball valve and related fittings to modify the pot for the hopblocker.

I used a step bit and really didn't have any trouble at all drilling the pot...kept it cool with a soaking wet paper towel.

Figuring that baby bottle nipples must be food safe and have to stand up to, at least, boiling temperatures, I cut the nipple part off, kept the "flat" part that goes into the bottle and had three food safe, high temp gaskets for less than a buck.

Works perfectly

Bitter Bastards Best

Best Bitter...5 gallons

I use a cylindrical cooler for the mash and 14# of grain is too much for it.  Terrible conversion.  Might be time to upgrade to one of the rectangular cooler builds.

mash @ 150F (note: not enough room in the tun to properly hydrate...could probably hit this gravity with 4 pounds each of 2 row and maris)
  • 6# pale 2 row
  • 6# maris otter
  • 1# biscuit
  • 1# 45L crystal

boil 75 minutes
  • 0.5 oz chinook - first wort
  • 0.5 oz warrior - first wort
  • 0.5 oz homegrown cascade - 20 minutes

chill and pitch sachet SafAle S-05
  • OG 1.056
  • FG 1.012

Bottling tip #1 - close the stopcock on the bottling bucket

Surprising how much mess a gallon or so of beer can make...

Wilkinson ESB

A nice classic ESB...willamette is kind of an american fuggles  3 gallons.

Mash @ 158F

  • 4.0 # pale 2 row
  • 0.5 # 15L crystal
  • 0.5 # biscuit

Boil and add
  • 0.25 oz warrior hops - 60 minutes
  • 1.0 # brown sugar - 60 minutes
  • 0.5 oz willamette - 20 minutes
  • 0.5 oz willamette - 5 minutes
  • 1 t irish moss - 5 minutes

cool and pitch 1 sachet SafAle S-05
  • OG 1.056
  • FG 1.010

GingerSmack - a dry sparkling mead

6 gallons.

Bring to 180F for 10 minutes
  • 6 Gallons filtered water
  • 0.5 T Gypsum
  • 2 inch chunk of gingerroot shredded
  • 12 # wildflower honey
  • 0.25 t irish moss

cool and pitch 1 sachet Lalvin D47 with
  • 1 t yeast energizer
  • 1 t yeast nutrient

After a week, dry hop with 1 T crushed black peppercorns

only enough bottling sugar for sparkling...3 oz or so.
  • OG 1.076
  • FG 1.000

Three C's Stout

5 gallons, partial mash.  I won't make this again.  It tastes great...the taste changes, it seems, every month...but it's a huge mess...the "cake" in the bottom of the carboys was thick and muddy and I had to rack four times to get it even close to clean

On the other hand, it tastes great...smooth...cherries, coffee, chocolate...what's not to love?

Mash in 4Q @ 155F overnight mash
  • 1.0 # toasted (300F) rolled oats
  • 1.0 # maris otter
  • 0.5 # 120L crystal
  • 0.5 # chocolate malt
  • 0.5 # 60L crystal

  • 1.0 # amber DME - 75 minutes
  • 6.6 # golden light LME - 75 minutes
  • 1.5 oz columbus - 75 minutes
  • 1 cinnamon stick - 5 minutes
  • 8.0 oz cocoa - 5 minutes
  • 1 cup (cup, not shot) expresso - flameout

cool and pitch 1 sachet SafAle S-04, 1 sachet SafAle S-05
  • add 5 pounds pie frozen pie cherries

hold for a week or so before racking the first time to make sure you've got all you're going to get from the cherries.  then rack a couple more times, as necessary, to clear.

Note -> after all that racking, it ended up at 4 gallons stout

  • OG 1.080
  • FG 1.025

American ESB

5 gallons.  Really simple. An ESB style with just a kiss of american hops.

Mash in 15Q water @ 154F overnight mash
  • 5.0 # pale 2 row
  • 5.0 # maris otter
  • 1.0 # 45L crystal
  • 0.5 # belgian wheat

Boil for 75 minutes
  • 0.50 oz chinook - first wort
  • 0.75 oz amarillo - first wort
  • 0.25 oz amarillo - 10 minutes

chill, pitch S-05
  • OG 1.068
  • FG 1.010

to clean wort stained pots easily

from Rox when she saw me furiously scrubbing the bottom of my stainless pot...

a couple inches of water in the pot
a half dozen tablespoons of baking soda

boil for 20 minutes and rinse

sparkling clean, no elbow grease required.

Sparkling Cyser

5 gallons.  One of Rox's favorites

heat to 180F for 20 minutes
  • 2.5 gallons unpreserved cider
  • 2.5 gallons filtered water
  • 6.0 # honey

chill and pitch 1 sachet Lalvin D47 and 1 sachet Safbrew S-33
  • OG 1.056
  • FG 0.996
hold bottling sugar to 3.6 oz so it's just sparkling.

Summer Ale

simple and easy.  very clean, very american

5 gallons

Mash @ 150F
  • 4.0 # pale 2 row
  • 4.0 # maris otter
  • 0.5 # 40L crystal
  • 0.5 # wheat malt

  • 0.5 oz amarillo - first wort
  • 0.5 oz columbus - 60 minutes
  • 1.0 # cane sugar - 60 minutes
    1 T black peppercorns - 20 minutes
  • 0.5 oz amarillo - flameout

chill and pitch 1 sachet S-05 in a slurry

  • OG 1.056
  • FG 1.002

Cousin Pliny - an American Imperial IPA

A tribute to Russian River's Pliny the Elder.

Not enough capacity in my setup for an all grain version, so this is a partial mash...

partial mash @ 154F overnight mash,
  • 4.25 # pale 2 row
  • 1.50 # 20L crystal
  • 1.00 # wheat malt
  • 0.50 # biscuit

sparge and add as follows...
  • 1.5 oz chinook - first wort
  • 2.0 # light DME - 90 minutes
  • 1.0 # cane sugar - 90 minutes
  • 0.5 oz chinook - 90 minutes
  • 2.0 oz warrior - 90 minutes
  • 1.0 oz simcoe - 45 minutes
  • 1.0 oz columbus - 30 minutes
  • 1.0 oz simcoe - flameout
  • 2.25 oz centennial - flameout
  • 3.5 # honey - flameout

cool & pitch SafAle S-05

after racking to secondary, dry hop with

  • 1.75 oz centennial
  • 3.25 oz columbus
  • 1.75 oz simcoe

rack to tertiary to clear.

  • OG 1.074
  • FG 1.009